The Winner.

May 17th, 2012

 

We had fifty-one beautiful submissions to our Mother’s Day Contest, many of which, with the author’s permission, I hope to reprint here in the following weeks.

Our criteria for the winner was simply, “the contribution that zings us with all that motherhood is:  a woman struggling to love and raise children when loving herself wasn’t always a finished project.”

Here’s the zinger.  Read it.  You’ll agree.

 

Recipe for Life:  What to Teach Your Children 

by Sandy Farrell

The gifts from my mother remain as intangibles- no recipe box, no heirloom dish set for the holidays, no special linens rich with memory and smell- but a different treasury that is very special to me. My mother died when I was 10, she was smiling at lunchtime and gone by the time I returned home from grammar school at 3pm. Met by my father, silent and in shock, sitting on the stairs bracing himself for the task of telling his three young daughters that their mother was gone forever.

We didn’t live with dad, my parents were separated and lived as polar opposites in their own Cold War of the 1950s. Belonging to that 25% of New England, the Anglo- Irish mix had torn apart their marriage from the start. We lived with an aunt and cooked out of her borrowed kitchen. It was the Mamie Eisenhower era, years before Jackie Kennedy and Julia Child would give us a different view on the world. This may sound bleak, but what I inherited was an appreciation that came only much later in life: the innovative spirit my mother possessed.

And in order to feel that appreciation I had to first distance myself with all of the hurt and anger that a ten year old girl could muster up to protect herself from such a loss. My mother had wanted to be an artist- and indeed was an artist. I have a beautiful charcoal she did at 14, and pastels done on the back of leftover wallpaper, weekly trips to the art museum on free Saturday mornings, and walks to the park for concerts. The local librarian told me they gave her an adult library card because she had read so much of the children’s library. She had trained as a nurse but the hours were too long for a mom with three little girls so she took a job as a waitress at a small neighborhood restaurant.

Never one to get caught up in recipes, or own many cookbooks, she would scan the fridge for content and swiftly make a decisive move, gather up an armful of ingredients and proceed to the counter. Tasks that took longer got started earlier, missing ingredients were replaced by substitutes, efficient peeling and chopping began, each of us assigned a specific job, taught the basic skills, not a moment or veg wasted, no tears, perseveration, hesitation, or remorse. Supper, plain and simple, quickly executed like a Zen master. First thought, best thought. Never the same river nor stew twice.

Recipe for Life.

Use what is on hand.  Don’t let it be a chore.  Keep it simple.  Use basic kitchen utensils.   Plan ahead.  Substitute freely and often don’t waste a thing.  Serve it up hot and fresh.

Even today, some fifty-plus years later these basic ingredients and recipe for life bless our kitchen. Cooking is fun, it’s relaxing and creative.

I still come home from work and have supper on the table in less than thirty minutes. Repeat last weeks dish?  Never.  No need, mom taught me more than how to cook up supper.

 

Farrell is a licensed acupuncturist working for Harbor Health Group in Gloucester, MA.  She first started coming to Cape Ann when she was a child; her mother would take one day a year and drive to Gloucester from Worcester with her daughters to tour the Art Galleries.  That’s when Farrell first loved “the smell of creosote and dead fish.”

Farrell volunteers at the Gloucester Farmers Market, organizing and setting up the Seafood Throwdowns, and at the Cape Ann Open Door.  Quietly, she’s using her mother’s lessons to support a healthy food community for all of Cape Ann.

Moqueca Baiana, very “Paleo” Brazilian Fish Stew

May 15th, 2012

 

Diana Rodgers, a certified nutritional therapist and passionate advocate of the Paleo diet, hails this African-shaded Moqueca – Brazilian Fish Stew – as a wonderful example of the nutrient-dense recipes in her Paleo recipe box.

(To watch Rodgers make Moqueca in a video click on: http://food.gloucestertimes.com/video/Fish-Stew.html)

Formerly the “farm family” at Green Meadows Farm in Hamilton, MA, Rodgers and her husband have transplanted their two children to The Clark Farm in Carlisle, MA where on twenty-two acres they raise organic chickens, pigs, sheep and ducks, and will begin a CSA next year.   Rodgers also runs a private nutrition practice called Radiance Nutrition.  The Paleo Diet is the template by which she practices.

Theoretically based on the protein and vegetable-packed dinners from which homo sapiens evolved, the Paleo Diet is rich with grass-fed meats, eggs, avocados, coconut milk, even bacon and lard from pasture-raised animals, sweet potatoes and carrots.

Yes, the diet is loosely based on early man, the coconuts representing the kind of omega 3 fatty acids scrounged 20,000 years ago.  The Paleo approach excludes the more recent additions to our evolutionary timeline (Wheat was first domesticated in Turkey circa 9,000 BC, considered recent for Paleo advocates.) -  grains, beans, and sugar, all of which spike blood sugar levels and cause inflammation, processes linked to diabetes, heart disease and cancers.

Rodgers claims the Paleo diet provides a big bang of vitamins, minerals and omega 3 fatty acids in each Paleo portion.  The diet is also low in omega 6 fatty acids, the bad guys associated with pro-thrombotic, pro-inflammatory and pro-constrictive processes which cause stroke, cancer and heart disease.  Consuming high levels of omega 6 fatty acids has been associated with breast cancer in post-menopausal women and prostate cancer in men.  Vegetable oils – canola, corn, soy and safflower – are significant sources.

The Paleo diet, she says, largely reflects foods we evolved to digest without stressing our bodies.  Easily digestible nutrients are easy to access.  The science gets dense here, but much of the Paleo thinking is based on avoiding something advocates call “anti-nutrients,” colloquially known as toxins.  Apparently seeds – and wheat grains are seeds, as are rice, barley and rye – have an outer coating intended by nature to guarantee the seed makes it through our digestive tract intact, thus able to relocate back in the soil and propagate.  Coated with “anti-nutrients,” or toxins, the seed protects itself from our hungry digestive enzymes.  The lucky host gets a good dose of toxins from that portion of seeds, and thus feels fairly crummy for a while – bloated, cramping, yucky.  Hello, gluten-free muffins! – or so one would think.

Years ago Rodgers discovered she had Celiac disease, and went on a gluten-free diet, consuming all the gluten-free breads and pasta she could find in the specialty stores.  But, she says, she was hungry all the time, and still felt “digestive distress.”  Reading Rob Wolff’s The Paleo Solution sent her full-time to a diet rich on pasture raised meats.

About the pasture-raised thing:  A grain-fed animal, Rodgers says, is a receptacle for all those omega 6 fatty acids we should be avoiding.  To dine on a grass-fed steer or acorn-fed pig is to benefit from the omega 3 fatty acids the animal enjoyed in their lifetime.  I asked Rogers what to do if pasture-raised meats simply weren’t available or in the budget; eat pasta?  She recommended choosing industrially produced chicken, but avoiding the skin; omega 6 fatty acids tend to pool in the fat.

At the simplest level compare the Paleo diet with a Standard American Diet: a very loose 2,000 calorie day of  a bagel and cream cheese breakfast, a Caesar salad and low-fat brownie for lunch, and spaghetti primavera for dinner compared to a loose 2,000 calorie Paleo day:  spinach omelet breakfast, a wild salmon and greens salad for lunch, and beef stew with carrots sweet potatoes and a side of sauerkraut (a little probiotic) for dinner.  The Paleo nutrients stack up pretty high.  Very basically, just by substituting tummy-irritating wheat with sweet potatoes can up the weekly vitamin A and C intake significantly.

While everyone need not burn their bread and grill hamburgers for breakfast, there are some compelling ideas to consider in the Paleo approach.

 

Back to Moqueca:  the fish is briefly marinated in garlic and lime, added to a great pile of softened peppers, tomatoes and cilantro, and finished like a Thai soup with coconut milk.  At the very least, think of this wildly flavorful stew as a great favor to take home from a visit to the Paleo party.

(Brazilians know Moqueca in two forms:   the very native Moqueca capixaba from the southern state of Espirito Santo and Moqueca baiana from Bahia, part of the knob of Brazil that juts farthest into the Atlantic.  Reflecting the African shores across the ocean,  Moqueca baiana includes shrimp and sometimes crab, and is finished with coconut milk.)

 

 

Moqueca Baiana

 

Ingredients:

1/3 cup lime juice (the juice of approx. 3 limes)

½ tsp sea salt

½ tsp black pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 ½ pound sea bass, cod, or other firm white fish cut into 1
inch pieces

1 ½ pound shrimp

2 tablespoons coconut or palm oil

2 cups chopped yellow onion

2 cups chopped red pepper

1 cup minced green onions

5 garlic cloves, minced

2 bay leaves

2 cups diced tomato (about 2 large tomatoes)

3 tsp tomato paste

½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

1 can (14oz) fish or seafood stock

1 cup chicken stock

1 can coconut milk (full fat)

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (more if you like it hot)

Instructions

Combine the first six ingredients in a large bowl. Set aside. Add the coconut oil or palm oil to a dutch oven and add the onion. Cook until soft. Add the pepper, green onions, garlic and bay leaf. Saute for approximately ten minutes or until vegetables are softened. Add tomatoes and tomato paste and cook for another five minutes. Add the chicken and fish stock along with the cilantro and simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes. Finally, add the coconut milk and red pepper and fish. Cook for about three minutes. Adjust for salt and pepper and serve.

 

 

photographs here courtesy of Taste of the Times

Rhubarb Upside Down Cake

May 13th, 2012

 

Thanks to the many, many people who sent in stories and recipes celebrating the refinement, practicality, humor and quirks of the women who were/are their mothers.   Thanks for showing how their love for family and friends so often arrived via a birthday cake or a pile of fresh currants.

One daughter rediscovered a treasured stash of family recipes – long considered lost – one of which had been scrawled down on the reverse side of an ad for Kotex.  Another daughter, writing a portrait of her mother, needed only to print one of the woman’s favorite recipes – a turkey stuffed with a cup of popcorn; it’s done “when it blows it’s ass off!”

Of course, now Tom Stockton (of the Landmark Files, creator of The Prize) and I will have to choose one winner, which may be a trial on our friendship.  (You can read about Tom’s mother, Wootsie, and her  fabulous house in Del Mar, California on The Landmark Files.)

Tom and I have renovated an entire house together without a harsh word between us; choosing the “zinger” from your submissions might be a challenge.  We’ll spend the next couple of days reading, and hopefully still be friends by Thursday, when we announce to whom will be sent the Grand Dessert-for-Four-Table Setting.

I spent this mother’s day hunting down garden rhubarb to make my mother’s Rhubarb Upside Down Cake.  My friend Mary Lou knew where there was a weekend retreat, no one in residence, and rhubarb plants with leaves the sizes of volkswagons.  Thanks to her for abetting my cake.

 

 

Rhubarb Upside Down Cake

 

Ingredients

4 cups fresh rhubarb

2 cups sugar

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup hot water

1/2 cup bran cereal

1 teaspoon vanilla

Instructions

Spread fruit in bottom of well greased 9 x 9 inch pan.  Sprinkle with 1 cup of the sugar.  Dot with butter.

Sift flour, baking powder, salt.  Beat egg yolks.  Blend in second cup of sugar.  Add water slowly, beating well.  Stir in bran and vanilla.  Add dry ingredients.  Mix well.  Beat egg whites.  Fold into batter.  Spread over rhubarb.  Bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes.

 

Here’s a portrait I did of my mother years ago:

 

- and here’s a homemade card my aunt sent my mother declaring her “The Duchess of Boxford;” She was shy, but my mother had style.)

 

Ricotta Fritters with Jane Ward

May 9th, 2012

 

The genesis of this ricotta fritter recipe is a perfect example of the way food ideas- and recipes – evolve.

(To see Jane teach me how to make these delicious dessert fritters you can watch the video at http://food.gloucestertimes.com/video/Ricotta-Fritters.html.  To see more videos click on “Watch Heather’s Cooking Videos” on the home page of the blog.)

Small globes of tender ricotta cheese, fragrant with lemon and orange zest, deep fried for a hot, crisp veneer, this dessert began as Jane Ward’s longing for Sicilian ricotta cheese pie, the stuff stacked in pale brown rounds in bakery windows in Boston’s North End at Easter, each weighing a good two and a half to three pounds.

“Start here,” Ward’s idea said.

An accomplished home cook, food blogger, and author, Ward turned away from pies heavy in both tradition and style, to a trail marked “this way for something lighter.”

She stopped next at Nigella Lawson’s recipe for lemony ricotta hotcakes from the cookbook Forever Summer.  Lawson’s recipe is a slap-dash assembly of ricotta, skim milk, flour, separated eggs, and baking soda.  Certainly lighter than the Sicilian grandmothers’ ricotta pies, these small pancakes are fresh and cheesy, and an excellent vehicle for fresh strawberries.  Lawson recommends eating them outside on a summer morning; that’s the “oh, I’m bad!” part of the recipe.

Taking notes, Ward headed down yet another trail, this one leading straight to her own kitchen and marked, “this way for something sexier.”

 

There’s nothing like dropping batter into hot oil to turn heads, which is what Ward did with Nigella’s, not just gilding the lilly, but frying it, sprinkling it with confectioner’s sugar, and dipping it into one of three sauces: chocolate, lemon and raspberry.  Oh, Nigella, you haven’t met Jane.  As for the Italian grandmothers?  – they’re winking at her.

 

Ricotta Fritters 

(adapted from a recipe for Ricotta Pancakes from Nigella Lawson’s Forever Summer)

Makes 16-24 fritters

Ingredients

1 quart vegetable or canola oil for frying

¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tsp. baking powder

¼ tsp. salt

zest of 1 lemon, or zest of ½ orange

2 large eggs

1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. vanilla

Optional: ½ cup diced apple, pear, or dried apricots

Powdered sugar

 

Instructions

Prepare a good thickness of paper towels and/or brown paper for draining your hot fritters and set aside

Start preheating vegetable or canola oil in a large (14”) skillet.  Test temperature with a candy/deep fry thermometer.  Oil is ready for frying at 360-370 degrees.

As oil preheats, stir together flour, baking powder, salt, and lemon or orange zest in a medium size mixing bowl and set dry ingredients aside.

Break two eggs into another medium size mixing bowl.  Beat eggs lightly and add to them the ricotta cheese, sugar, and vanilla.  Combine with a whisk until mixture is smooth.  Add dry ingredients to the egg and cheese mixture.  Using a rubber scraper, gently fold the dry ingredients into the wet.  Blend only until the flour has been incorporated, and do not overmix.

(Note: if you choose to add in any optional fruit, fold it into the batter during the last few seconds of mixing and mix only until evenly distributed.)

Check oil temperature with the thermometer.  For frying, the oil should reach between 360 and 370 degrees.  When oil is ready, drop batter by tablespoons or a small ice cream scoop (about 1½ Tbsp.) into the skillet.  Make up to 6 fritters at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the skillet, thus lowering the oil’s temperature.

Cook one side until golden, then turn the fritter using a slotted spoon to brown the other side.  Continue to turn during cooking to fry evenly.  Fritters take about 3-4 minutes to cook.

Remove finished fritters from oil using the slotted spoon and transfer them to the paper to drain.  Repeat the frying/draining process with the next 6 fritters at a time until batter is gone.

When fritters are done and draining on the paper, sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar through a sieve or sifter.  Serve immediately on dessert plates, either plain or with lemon, raspberry, or chocolate sauces for dipping.  Fresh berries make a nice accompaniment.

Sauces

Lemon Curd

½ cup sugar

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, strained of pulp and seeds

2 Tbsp. heavy cream

3 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

Whisk sugar and lemon juice together in a small bowl.  Gradually whisk in the cream.  Then whisk in the eggs and yolks.  Whisk well.  Pour this mixture into a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan.  Cook over medium heat, continuing to whisk constantly.  The curd will begin to thicken after a few minutes (3-5 minutes).  Remove from heat immediately before overcooking and push through a strainer with a rubber scraper into a small bowl.

Cover the surface of the curd with a sheet of plastic wrap and set to cool slightly.  Serve lukewarm.

Chocolate Sauce

4 ounces good quality semisweet chocolate chips (such as Callebaut or Ghirardelli)

½ cup heavy cream

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. softened unsalted butter

½ tsp. vanilla extract

Scald cream in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add sugar.  Before cream boils, remove it from the heat and stir in the chocolate, butter, and vanilla.  Stir until smooth.  Let cool slightly then give one more vigorous stir.  Transfer to a small bowl.  Serve warm.  (May be cooled and reheated in a double boiler before serving.)

Raspberry Sauce

2 Tbsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. water

2 pints fresh raspberries (or 1 bag frozen)

Heat sugar and water together in a small saucean until sugar is completely dissolved.  Add to this simple syrup the raspberries.  Bring to a simmer and simmer steadily under liquid is slightly reduced and fruit and syrup look slightly thickened.  (Frozen berries will take longer.)

When thickened slightly, remove from heat.  Using a fork to mash or a stick blender, puree the berries in the saucepan.  When pureed, pour berry sauce through a sieve and push it through the mesh with the back of a spoon into a small bowl, removing all the seeds and leaving a smooth sauce.

 

All photos here courtesy of Taste of the Times.

 

The Concorde, a birthday cake by White House Pastry Chef Bill Yosses

May 7th, 2012

 

 

When I was a girl I always wanted my birthday cake floated to me down a river, because in Tasha Tudor’s book “Becky’s Birthday” ten-year-old Becky’s cake arrives to her downstream, where she waits in the middle of a dark forest with her happy family gathered, their smiling faces illuminated by birthday candles.  Nothing spills.  Nothing gets wet.  No sibling sulks that it’s not their birthday.

Long on fantasy, my mother tried; she floated my birthday cakes in bathtubs and in buckets, which was just funny, not dreamy.

One day this past winter, I looked at the frozen quarry outside the kitchen of my new house, and realized the floating birthday cake moment had finally arrived.  My daughter would be turning fourteen in May -

With a small boogie board and a length of string to pull the cake across, I finally created the ultimate birthday moment, and it was prettier than the page in the book.  Lighting candles in the dark outside is always primal; candles on water is haunting, reminiscent of a trip across the River Styx.  The candles on water made everyone hush, watching in silence as the little grocery store cake make its journey, leaving a tiny wake of reflected sparklers in the black water.

 

 

It was more enchanting than I even imagined; we decided, no matter what the number, every birthday at Howlets should be celebrated with a floating birthday cake.  No one is ever too old to have the quiet and darkness illuminated by candles reflected in the rippling wake of a gently moving dessert.

Now I’m thinking about what other illuminated dishes I can send across the quarry.

Also, I was no dummy; there was no way I was going to risk sinking the real cake I made for my daughter, The Concorde, an amazingly scrumptious assemblage of cocoa meringue and chocolate mousse from the cookbook The Perfect Finish by White House Pastry Chef Bill Yosses.  As if that weren’t enough, this cake is also gluten-free.

 

 

Float the white icing and blue roses, but MAKE The Concorde.  As Yosses describes it, “the second you cut into the gorgeous whole, the meringue shatters into an asymmetric pile of delicious crisp chips suspended in the dark chocolate mousse.”

For those who have come to dread the cake part of birthdays, this is the anti-cake cake, because there’s no cake at all, just airy mousse and crumbling meringue.  Poor Becky didn’t get a slice of this.

 

 

 

The Concorde

 

Ingredients

Chocolate Mousse:

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate

9 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 large eggs at room temperature

2 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

5 tablespoons granulated sugar

 

Crisp Cocoa Meringue:

1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa powder

6 large egg whites at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Instructions

For the Mousse:

In a saucepan over low heat (or in the microwave), melt the chocolate and butter, whisking until smooth.  Let cool.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the 6 egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium speed until frothy.  Continuing to beat at medium speed, gradually add the granulated sugar, then raise the speed to high and beat until the meringue forms stiff, glossy peaks, 5 minutes more.

Whisk the 4 egg yolks into the chocolate-butter mixture, then gently fold some meringue into the chocolate mixture.  Add the rest of the meringue and fold until thoroughly combined.  Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 4 hours to set the mousse.  You can leave it in the refrigerator for 4 days if you want to work ahead.

 

For the Baked Meringue

Postition the racks in the top an dbottom thirds of the oven and preheat to 250 degrees F.

Sift the confectioners sugar and cocoa powder onto a piece of parchment or waxed paper and set aside.

In a clean bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium speed until frothy.  Beating at medium speed, gradually add the granulated sugar a tablespoon at a time, then raise the speed and beat until the meringue forns stiff, glossy peaks, 5 minutes more.

Sprinkle the sugar-cocoa mixture over the meringue and fold it int using a rubber spatula.  Spread some of the meringue with a spoon or spatula onto one of the prepared baking sheets into two 8 inch circles.

Here, Yosses recommends piping strips of meringue with a pastry tube or by squeezing a plastic bag, snipped at the end, onto the second baking sheet.  As usual, I was in a bit of a hurry, and simply spooned two to three inch lengths of meringue onto the parchment.  These are stuck decoratively on the sides of the cake at the end.  It’s worth doing for the “nested” effect.  Yosses trimmer pieces are more architectural.

Bake both sheets until the circles and strips of the meringues are thoroughly dried, 1 – 1 1/2 hours.  They will be crisp, but will not change color.  Let cook, then peel the parchment off the circles and strips.

To assemble and serve:

Spread a little mousse in the center of a serving plate, then pace one meringue circle over it.  Spread about half of the mousse over the meringue, dolloping it evenly so that you can spread it without working it more than necessary.  Top with the second meringue circle, then spread the rest of the mousse all over the outside of the cake.  Stick the random sticks onto the sides.  Yosses breaks his up and sticks them on at zigzag angles, very Post Modern sounding, but there was no photo of his.  Refrigerate the cake until chilled, at least 3 hours, and up to 12.  Sift confectioners sugar or cocoa powder over the cake before serving.

 

 

Diner en Blanc at The Waring School

May 4th, 2012

 

 

In 1988, according to the New York Times, a Frenchman named Francois Pasquier returned to Paris after being abroad, and wanted to give himself a homecoming party.  Too many friends and too little room, he invited his guests to the Bois de Boulougne, and told them all to dress in white so they would recognize each other as his guests.

Diner en Blanc, now an international pop-up dinner phenomenon, in which people are told at the last minute to show up dressed en blanc at an appointed public setting with their tables, chairs and picnic dinner, was thus conceived.   http://www.dinerenblanc.info/

Just last year, on a perfect June evening, 6,200 Parisians pique-niqued, danced and flourished white dinner napkins in the air at the Cour Carree du Louvre while another 4,400 simultaneously feted the courtyard du Notre Dame. Around the world, Diner en Blanc has set its white sail, from Australia to Mexico to Rwanda to Singapore.  Last summer a spirited group planted tables of crisp white linens at the Harbor Loop in Gloucester, Massachusetts for a gorgeous evening of picnics, fluttering white skirts and dreamy photo opportunities.

Somehow, perhaps it’s the white, or the uniformity, or the hundreds of variations on the most pristine of colors, but Diner en Blanc makes magic.  It’s a divine way to have a party; for someone with a camera, it’s ShangriLa.

While we removed the spontaneity, The Waring School in Beverly, Massachusetts recently threw our own version of an all-white dinner, which proved to be one of the prettiest parties one could attend.

 

Decorations were white and variations thereof, but mostly the guests were the lighting, the flowers, the streamers, the garnish and the frou-frou.

Thanks to parents Doug Garrabrandts of Zoe-Design and Tom Erickson, self-described geek and CEO of Acquia for their jewel-like photographs, which tell the Diner en Blanc story and the joy it inspired better than I.

Daniel Laporte, a Canadian-born architect helping to organize Diner en Blanc in New York has said: “…the most important thing is for everyone to have the best memory of the night.”   I think we did.

Photo credits:  Erickson photos 1,2,3,4,5,7,8,11  Garrabrants photos 6,9,10,12,13

Rosemary Chicken Salad in a Jar

May 1st, 2012

My children’s school recently asked that I create a picnic dinner for 200 plus people for the annual auction meal.  The mechanics of packing food in a basket just isn’t that easy.  Things roll, tip, and spill.  (This was dinner; sandwiches were never an option.)

I was seriously struggling to figure out simply how to pack the basket, when I re-discovered a recipe of my mother’s I had always loved:  an herb-layered chicken salad simply marinated in lots of olive oil, salt and pepper, and packed into a jar.

“Packed in a jar,” the words that saved me.  A jar is the most transportable vessel there is.  Civilizations have successfully packed foods in jars – clay and otherwise – and gone on picnics or voyages for centuries.

This chicken salad’s list of virtues is long:  It can – and must – be made ahead so that the flavors infuse.  Can you imagine my relief when I realized I could prepare this dinner for 200 three days in advance?

It is flavorful, not something easily achieved in room temperature picnic food.

Not only that, iconic rosemary, garlic and olive oil are friendly with so many tastes.  From this jarred dish I went on to two others I knew would just get better made in advance:  David Lebovitz’ lentil salad with shallots and mustard and Do Chua, the vietnamese vegetable salad with sesame oil, rice wine vinegar, ginger and cilantro.   The chicken was happy on the plate with all these flavors.  Just spread on a crusty bread it was glorious.

While we were preparing the salad, pulling apart the chicken meat, we tossed the bones back into the broth in which it had cooked.   As we plucked the rosemary sprigs, we tossed the stems into there, too.  Another hour on the stove simmering bones and herbs resulted in one of the most delicious broths imaginable, just one more gift this recipe provides.

Lastly, the chicken is beautiful: layers of white breast meat, verdant rosemary and golden olive oil look like Food Art through the glass of the jar.

 

 

 

Rosemary Chicken Salad in a Jar

 

Ingredients

5 organic chicken breasts halves, bone-in

1 carrot, chopped coarse

1 onion, quartered

2 garlic cloves (for the broth)

fine sea salt to taste

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 to 1 1/4 cups extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fresh rosemary leaves, chopped, reserving 2-3 sprigs for decoration

10 garlic cloves chopped loosely in a food processor

fine sea salt to taste

freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 cup Ball Jar, or similar glass jar with a lid.

 

Instructions

In an 8-to-9 quart kettle combine chicken, carrot, onion, 2 cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, and enough water to cover chicken completely. Bring mixture to a boil, skimming any foam that rises to surface, and simmer, covered, just until chicken is tender, about 25 minutes.

Remove kettle from heat and let chicken cool completely, uncovered, in poaching liquid. Remove chicken from liquid and shred, discarding bones.  Put meat into a large bowl.

Toss chopped rosemary, chopped garlic, salt and pepper all over the chicken.  Drizzle some good glugs of the oil over all, and toss to distribute the ingredients equally.  Taste the salad.  It will definitely need more salt and oil, so keep drizzling and tasting.  It needs much more oil and salt than you realize, so keep adding, tossing gently, and tasting until it’s delicious.

When you are ready to spoon the salad into the jar, put about a half a cup of chicken into the bottom.  Stand the reserved sprigs of rosemary up so they press against the jar sides, pressing the stems into the first layer of chicken to hold them in place.  Spoon in the remaining chicken to fill the jar, making sure the rosemary stays attractively against the sides.  Drizzle a last tablespoon of olive oil over all, and close it up.

Chill for at least 1 day and up to 3 days, turning the jar occasionally to distribute the oil. Let jar stand at room temperature at least 1 hour before serving.

serves 8

A little about Mexican Mole

April 26th, 2012

 

Mole, the savory Mexican sauce most of us know as chocolate and chili pounded to a smooth paste, is a traditional food celebrating Cinco de Mayo.  Alex Pardo, part owner and chef of Jalapeno’s in Gloucester, grew up making day trips from his home in Mexico City to the city of Puebla, where people traveled for mole the way they travel to Essex for fried clams.

 

There are a few Puebla mole legends, but in Pardo’s version mole ingredients were first mixed in a molcajete (a lava rock mortar and pestle) in 1862 by Puebla nuns planning a quick escape from the offending French army.  The nuns threw together foods that would best suit a long journey.  Their chocolate and chili mixture, packed with protein and vitamins, was sachel-ready to make an old turkey or hunk of venison cooked over a campfire delicious and nutritious.  Miraculously, the Mexicans Army defeated the French on May 5th, and Cinco de Mayo became the El Dia de la Batalla de Puebla, The Day of the Battle of Puebla.  (It is NOT Mexican Independence Day, which is September 16th.) Cinco de Mayo can be a horn-honking, flag-waving celebration in this country, particularly in cities like Chicago with large Mexican communities, but in Mexico it’s recognized regionally, certainly in Puebla.

 

 

Mole, Pardo explained, has many variations in Mexico, the way curry in India comes in hundreds of flavors.  The Puebla version is chocolate and chills, but there are green, black, yellow and Colorado moles.  ”Moles” simply means “sauce.”  Still, traditionally, moles are a combination of often thirty ingredients, many of which are elaborately toasted and ground before mixing together.  According to Rick Bayless, chef/owner of the well known Southwest restaurant in Chicago, Frontera Grill, the components to mole are generally five distinct tastes:  chiles, sour (tomatillos), sweet (dried fruits, honey), spice and thickeners (nuts, bread crumbs).

To see Alex Pardo make Chicken Enchilladas with Mole go to the video:  http://food.gloucestertimes.com/video/Chicken-Enchiladas.html

In my newspaper column this week I published David Lebovitz’ mole recipe, but I’m going to print my all time favorite mole recipe here:  Rowan Jacobsen’s simplified version of the mole basics.

Poor Man’s Mole

Ingredients

1 tablespoon corn oil or lard

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 cup toasted pepitas

1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes (preferably fire-roasted and their juice)

1 cup Choco-chile sauce (recipe below)

4 cups shredded or chunked cooked meat (chicken, turkey)

salt to taste

1 cup fresh cilantro

Instructions

Heat the oil or lard in a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients.  When it’s shimmering, add the onion and saute, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes.

Combine the pepitas tomatoes, Choco-Chili Saue, and sauteed onions in a blender or food processor and blend until fairly smooth.  A little texture is fine.

Return the sauce to the skillet and cook over low heat until it begn to bubble, about 5 minutes.  Keep scrap8ng the bottom of the skillet with a flat spatula, as the thick sauce likes to stick.

Add the meat and simmer until everything is hot and the flavors have melded, about 15 minutes. The sauce thickens as it cooks so you may need to add liquid as you go.  Water or stock is fine, but if you’ve really planned ahead you’ve saved the leftover soaking water from the Choco-Chili sauce.  Taste and add salt if needed.

Garnish with cilantro and serve with tortillas or polenta.

 

Choco-Chili Sauce

Makes about 1 cup

Ingredients

2 ounces dried pasilla or ancho chilies

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

1 to 2 ounces baking or dark chocolate (at least 70 percent cocoa), finely chopped

1 teaspoon honey

zest and juice of 1/2 lime

1/2 teaspoon salt

Instructions

Stem and seed the chilies.  (This is easiest when thy’re in a dried state.  The seeds rattle around inside the skins like beans in a maraca and simply fall out when you cut open the chilies.)  Put them in a bowl and cover them with boiling water.  Let them sit for at least 15 minutes.

Drain the chilies, reserving the soaking liquid, and puree them in a food processor with the other ingredients, adding small amounts of soaking liquid as needed to make it blend smoothly.  (You may also want to use the soaking liquid in a Poor Man’s Mole.)  Taste and add more lime or salt if desired.  The sauce will keep for at least a week (possibly forever, Jacobsen says he’s never tested it) and its flavor will actually improve after a day or so.

 

Rocky Delforge, artist and printmaker

April 19th, 2012

 

 

In the long tradition of Rockport artists, Rocky Delforge, 24, has set up a print-making studio a block away from Sandy Bay.  The famous Cape Ann light filters into his organization disguised as clutter in his studio disguised as a garage.

Still, there are no seagulls or sailboat images here.  Delforge’s muscular prints and drawings remind me of Charles Scheeler’s early 20th century photographs of flying highway ramps and sky-scrapered avenues.  Delforge has “arm” in his drawings, confident lines that efficiently (and dare I say with purity?) define space.  In the whimsical roof of Gloucester’s city hall, or in the rivulets of character of an old man’s face, Delforge extracts just enough but adds much.

 

Delforge is a member of a recently launched organization called The Rockport Creative Collective, a group of working artists living in Rockport who gather monthly in each other’s studios to drink wine and talk about what it means to be an artist today in this small seaside town.  To tweet or not to tweet, the group asked themselves recently. Some said yes; some firmly no.  They talk about things like that, but mostly they gather just the way artists always have – the need to talk and be together.  From that an artistic vibe is born, something worth reviving on our Cape so historically heavy with painters and sculptors.

Particularly interested in collaborations between retailers and artists on Cape Ann – retailers often have blank walls that need filling and local artists have Art -Delforge hung a show of prints at Thistle Hill in Rockport this past March, and for a night, in the dreariest time of year, one shop on Main St. glowed with light and laughter for the opening – more reason to collaborate.

You can see Delforge’s work hanging now in Pleasant St. Tea Co, at 7 Pleasant St. in Gloucester and at this link to his Facebook page:    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rocky-Delforge-Artist/121621697928041?sk=photos

 

A Mothers Day Recipe Contest: win a gift from The Landmark Files

April 15th, 2012

 

My mother wasn’t the round, rosy, aproned grandmother; she was the tall, thin woman quietly shelling perfect spring peas in the kitchen while everyone else poured wine and dipped into her pesto and goat cheese torta in the dining room.  She was shy and relationships weren’t easy for her; Preparing beautiful meals was her way of connecting to people when words and feelings baffled her.

Probably for these reasons my mother didn’t believe in potlucks; she believed in making every course herself.  Only in later years would she stoop to accepting people’s offers to contribute.  And when she finally began asking me to bring a dish to Thanksgiving, I heard  the submission in her voice.  It killed her, as if she were surrendering a portion of her kingdom.

And when I showed up with the two pumpkin pies she’d requested, there sitting on her dining room buffet table were two of the most gorgeous pumpkin pies you’ve ever seen – tender crusts crimped in perfect rolling waves, the filling a fresh pumpkin baked with heavy cream and aged bourbon.  In the end she couldn’t surrender.  Instead of seeing my pies as assistance she had seen them as a challenge.  Instead of scratching pumpkin pies from her list of things to do, she’d added “make them even better than ever.”

She was a little nuts.  I’m sure everyone has their own stories about their mothers – funny, odd, difficult, complicated – and recipes to decorate the tales.  I invite you to send “Food for Thought” a favorite recipe from your mother.  The recipe could be her best or her worst, your favorite or the funniest depiction of her.  If you can, send a story along with it.

The contest will end on Mother’s Day.  We’ll simply pick the contribution that zings us with all that motherhood is:  a woman struggling to love and raise children when loving herself wasn’t always a finished project.  For many of us, our mothers’ dishes say that.  Maybe your mother’s recipe says “Mom would rather be selling real estate.”  Send it in if you think it’s good.

 

 

The prize will be a gorgeous dessert place setting for four assembled by Tom Stockton of The Landmark Files, with one of a kind items from his secret sources:  Oversized oatmeal linen napkins from HumbleSimpleSlow.  Candlesticks handcrafted from rail spindles.  Cut glass sherry glasses.  Verrines on a chunky modern charger.  Cups for your cafe au lait.  Even the pears spinning in a whirl of raffia, a la Tom.

Submit your recipe and/or story two ways:  either paste it into the “contact us” section or mail it to Haatwood@gmail.com.

 

I’m finishing with a recipe I found in my mother’s files:  Bertha’s Pound Cake.  It’s an alchemic combination of butter, sugar, eggs, sour cream and flavorings.  My mother made the pound cake for years; the ratio of crumb to density is fine-to-elegant, and the flavor makes me think of buttercups.  If my mother had asked me to bring a cake for dessert we both would have baked this one, as neither one of us could improve upon Bertha’s Pound Cake with fresh berries and whipped cream.

 

Bertha’s Lb. Cake

 

Ingredients

2 3/4 cups sugar

1 cup butter

3 cups flour

6 eggs

salt

1/4 tsp. baking soda

1 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon lemon flavoring

1/2 teaspoon orange flavoring

1/2 teaspoon vanilla flavoring

 

Instructions

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Grease a 10 inch bundt pan.

Cream butter and sugar.  Add eggs one at a time.

Sift dry ingredients. Add alternately with sour cream.  Add flavorings.

Bake until a knife inserted comes out clean, approximately 45 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Prize from The Landmark Files

If your mother’s recipe and story send us, we’ll send you the following:

(There are four of each unless otherwise noted.)

 

1. white ceramic simple coffee cups and saucers

2. dessert wine stem ware cut glass etched with subtle floral pattern (Tom’s

grandmother’s)

3. cordial stem ware with subtle tear drop shaped pattern

4. glass verrines

5. small footed glasses/bowls

6. white ceramic saucers

7. chargers made out of a composite material with a silver finish (a bit of bling)

8. teaspoon size spoons

9. glass water glasses

10.  Handmade linen napkins from HumbleSimpleSlow

11.  white ceramic water pitcher (don’t you always want water with dessert after the usually too salty meal?)

12. white ceramic modern biomorphic flower vase

13. Large whitewashed candle sticks made from Victorian railings and fence caps

14. flameless wax battery operated candles

15. mid size white wood candlesticks

16. real taper candles

17. metal woven basket with handles and silver finish for desert wine or cordial bottle (more bling)