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strawberry rhubarb pie

Thursday, May 16th, 2013

 

We call her “the biscotti lady,” because Rosanne Leblanc makes soft, luxurious biscotti draped in chocolate, crowned in fresh nuts.  She also makes homemade turtles, little candy drifts of chocolate, caramel and nuts.  She does all this baking in a beautiful home in West Gloucester, the centerpiece of which is an enormous brick chimney harboring an old cast iron cookstove and a pizza oven.  Rosanne loves to cook;  her kitchen says it all.

 

Still, as of yesterday, I am changing her tag to “the strawberry rhubarb pie lady.”  LeBlanc served me a slice of this springtime classic which was the perfect balance of sweet to tart.  A streusel topping beneath the lattice top gave a nutty crunch, compliment to the unavoidable slippery feel of cooked rhubarb.

I’m wondering what her next title will be; I think she makes delicious granola bars – she might be “the granola bar lady” soon!

 

 

Rosanne’s biscotti and turtles can be purchased at Rosanne’s Biscottis.    While you’re visiting, check out her blog and video.

 

 

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie

makes 2 pies

 

Ingredients

 

filling

4 cups peeled and cut rhubarb

1 1/2 cup sugar (divided)

4 cups strawberries, washed and cut

1/2 cup flour

2 teaspoons tapioca

 

topping

2 cups old fashioned oatmeal

½ cup flour

½ cup  brown sugar

1/2 cup ground pecans

1/4 cup chopped pecans

½ cup  butter

½ cup  Crisco (more if needed)

½ teaspoon salt

1  teaspoon cinnamon

non-stick spray for the pie pan

1 pie crust recipe for the lattice tops

egg and sugar for the crust

 

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Peel and cut rhubarb.  Cook with about ½ c. sugar for about 5 minutes.

Wash and cut strawberries into large pieces.  Add to rhubarb.

Mix about ½ c. flour along with 1 c. sugar and 2 tsp. tapioca

Add fruit to this mixture.  Pour into two pie dishes sprayed with non-stick spray.

Mix together the topping ingredients with fingers until crumbly.

Sprinkle this over pies.

 

Cut your favorite pie crust recipe into strips and lattice over the whole pies.

Brush with beaten egg and sprinkle with white sugar.  Bake for approximately 40 min.

 

roasted tomato salsa, tomatilla salsa, the best guacamole, and a Jamaican margarita.

Tuesday, May 7th, 2013

 

Maria Gonzalez grew up in Sonoita Arizona, about 40 miles north of the Mexican border, “right in the middle of beautiful high desert grasslands,” Maria’s husband, Jim Thornhill, told me.

 

 

“Maria’s father, Alexander, was from Sonoita; he lived his entire life a few miles from where he was born,” Thornhill said, “he’s a legend.”

Thirty years older than Maria’s mother, Alexander died just a few days short of his 95th birthday.  Horseback was the only way for him to get around when he was young. He worked in the CCC camps for a while, then volunteered for the army during WWII.

“I’ve never met a harder working, kinder, more knowledgeable man,” Thornhill said.  “When I first met Maria, she had braces.  She told me one time she’s never paid a cent for dental work; her dad saved the life of the local dentist, and he repaid Alex by taking care of Maria. There are so many stories about him like that.”

Maria’s mother, Elizabeth, is from England; she worked as a nanny for a family that eventually moved to southern Arizona, where she met and married Alex. Elizabeth, a wonderful cook, quickly learned traditional Mexican recipes from her husband.

I met Maria when she was working for the architects Luna Design Group, who renovated our first house.  Jim was our project manager, and we became friends.  Thornhill now has his own architectural and construction firm, Applied Form and Space, and Maria is an architect with EGA Architects in Newburyport.

The great big news is that Maria and Jim have just welcomed the next Alex – Alexander Asher -  into the world, born April 23rd.

 

We enjoyed these cocktails, this roasted tomato salsa, guacamole and fresh tomatillo salsa last spring with Maria and Jim.  In honor of – whoops, it just slipped by – Cinco de Mayo and little Alex – I decided it was time to remind people that there should be no other recipe in your files for guacamole; get rid of the salsa jars in your pantry.  Balance of fire and flavor, these recipes make salsa and chips exciting again.  Only a rosy sunset could improve the Jamaican Margarita.

I’m going to make guacamole today, and think of Alex stooped in the saddle after a long ride across the Arizona dessert, knowing nothing of the New England snows his grandson will inevitably endure.

 

 

Roasted Tomato Salsa

2 fresh jalapenos or 4 serranos (if jalapenos I take out the sees, if serranos, I leave them in)

3 garlic cloves, unpeeled

1/2 cup finely chopped white onion rinsed in cold water

1 15 ounce can fire roasted diced tomatoes in their juice

1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro

1/2 a fresh lime (or vinegar in a pinch)

 

Roast chiles and garlic in a hot pan until skin is black on chiles and garlic is soft.  Place chiles in a damp paper towel to steam and peal off skin when cool.  Chop chiles and peeled garlic in food processor and add can of tomatoes (can process as course or as smooth as you like).  Add tomato mixture to onion and cilantro and add lime.  Add salt if desired.

 

Fresh Tomatillo Salsa

4-6 medium tomatillos, husked rinsed and quartered

1 large garlic clove, peeled

1 jalapeno or 2 serrano peppers, stemmed and roughly chopped

1/2 to 2/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon salt

 

Place everything in the food processor until it becomes a course puree.  You can add some water if it is a little thick.

 Guacamole

2 ripe avocados

1/2 cup finely diced white onion, rinsed in cold water

1/3 cup roughly chopped cilantro

1-2 serrano peppers, finely diced

Juice of one lime

salt to taste

 

Fork smash avocados leaving some chunks.  Mix all other ingredients together and serve immediately.

 

Jamaica Margaritas

Jamaica infusion:

5 oz. dried jamaica flowers

1 scant C. sugar

3 cups water

 

Bring water to boil and add flowers and sugar.  Stir until sugar dissolves.  Remove from burner and cover and let sit for 1-2 hours.  Strain and refrigerate.  Can be made several days in advance.

 

1-1/2 C fresh lime juice

2 C 100% agave blanco tequila (I usually use El Milagro)

1 C Contreau

1/2 C jamaica flower infusion

 

Stir together all ingredients and refrigerate for one hour.

For a pretty rim you can grind some dried jamaica flowers and mix with sugar to sugar the rim of the glasses.

 

Thanks again for having us over and I always look forward to checking in on your blog!

Maria

Time gone by, Anna Rusk’s Corn Pudding

Thursday, April 25th, 2013

I tried to make plane reservations dependent on when the daffodils would be blooming, but a few days of 80 degree weather last week had already burst open the drifts of narcissus in Carolyn Rusk’s Baltimore garden.  My aunt had been telling me that I had to see this garden, owned and tended by her childhood friend.

The bulbs had retired when I arrived to shields of green wands, background for this week’s show of shimmering snowflakes, Leucojum aestivum.  

 

 

Carolyn Rusk stepped out of the front door to greet us tying a plastic rainbonnet over her short, already hatted hair.  She paused to slip plastic rain booties over her shoes.  It wasn’t raining, but the air was moist.  The booties, I learned later, were to protect the spring beauties, or Clatonia virginica and Confederate violets,Viola sororia priceana, from heavy footsteps.

 

Interfaced planes of moss and these dainty early spring flowers were lawn in Rusk’s garden.  Trout Lillies, Erythronium americanum, emerged close to the earth, their speckled leaves looking like a school of leaping fish caught in midair.

Oaks and Beech, the giants in this botanical drama, soared straight out of tender woodland to create the dappled cover beneath which this garden thrives.  Rusk, 83, grew up in this home.  She left for a career as a high school French teacher, but came back to tend the house and garden her mother began years ago.  Her parents, Anna and Alex Rusk, had moved here in the 1930’s, drawn, Carolyn told us, to the wild azaleas growing on the property.  “I want to live here,” her mother had declared, believing the azaleas signaled garden promise.

 

The garden is from another time.  Carolyn, tiny and bright, lead us through the barely noted paths, pointing out a patch of Trillium and winter aconites beneath great stretches of leggy viburnum.

Mayapples, Podophyllum peltatum, with their cheery round leaves seemed to call out, “hey, look at me!” from every corner, along every passage.  We spent a long time assessing an Indian euonymus, Euonymus atropurpureus.  Carolyn fondled its budding spindle of a branch, as if she were greeting a favorite pet. She talked about how plants come and go here, “that is the fun of it.”  The bluettes and bloodroot seemed to have disappeared, but the winter aconites and confederate violets had arrived.  In fact, it was hard to know if Carolyn considered herself a gardener, and this a tamed effort, or if she were just loosely managing a forested wilderness, documenting and nursing along the natural shifts of a patch of woods.

Carolyn’s home, as one would expect, had not changed since her parents’s time.  I fell in love with the kitchen, as well- loved as the garden, almost a museum of cooking in the 1930’s.

Here is the sad news:  I arrived this past Sunday to see Carolyn’s garden just in time; the movers were to arrive on Wednesday.  Carolyn was saying goodbye to house and garden, and moving to a retirement home.

This sort of garden, a universe beyond suburban plantings, and this sort of home, its stalwart cast iron appliances as sturdy as vaults, are gone.  Thank you, Carolyn, for a last glimpse of a very special time, now slipping away.

 

 

 

My aunt, who has been friends with Carolyn since the 4th grade, had years ago received Anna Rusk’s recipe for Fresh Corn Pudding, which we offer here.  Remember this – and think of Carolyn – in August when the first fresh corn arrives.

Anna Rusk’s Fresh Corn Pudding, from Carolyn

 

Scrape down 5 or 6 ears of corn.  Add yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, and 1 cup milk.  Fold in stiffly beaten 2 egg whites.  Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Bake in a greased casserole about an hour.

The Yankee Chef, Feel Good Food For Every Kitchen

Wednesday, April 17th, 2013

 

Jim Bailey calls himself The Yankee Chef.  His new cookbook, The Yankee Chef, Feel Good Food for Every Kitchen, is a compendium of New England foods – and more.

 

Thirty years ago, Jim Bailey, at 20 years old, leapt, wrists and feet bound, 55 feet from a Skowhegan, Maine bridge into the Kennebec River.  The article in the Lewiston Journal from September 1982 described the young man as a short-order cook and an amateur boxer.

“He took the leap on Wednesday to publicize what, he hopes, is his next profession as a magician and escape artist.”

My metaphor may be a reach, but I’d say Bailey is still working as an escape artist, at least allowing his cuisine to escape from the New England liturgy of cornmeal, cranberries and maple syrup.  His cookbook covers Northeast recipes from corned goose to plum duff, including excerpts from historical cookbooks in the marginalia, but there are also recipes for Kung Pao Shrimp and Orange Cappucino Cheesecake.  Watch those New recipes un-tie themselves from “New England,” and get away!

In his signature pink chef’s jacket, Bailey earns his Yankee Chef title if only for his long Maine pedigree and the slow, elegant way his DownEast “r’s” turn into “ah’s.”

“Heatha, it’s a pleashah to meet a nice lady like you,”  he told me over the phone.  Does he really talk like that, I wondered.  He does.  Watch his videos.

Tall, solid, brawny, Bailey’s build reminds us of that amateur boxer he once was.

His biography is studded with tough Maine men in kitchens, struggling with their curious, sensitive souls, and with drinking.  Bailey’s grandfather, Sam Bailey, played a fiddle well enough to be accepted into the New England Conservatory of Music; he supported himself by learning to cook.  His son, Bailey’s father, followed the same path, playing the same violin, and ultimately owning three restaurants, because a restaurant provides a steadier income than a violin.  Bailey describes them all as three generations of violin-playing history buffs from Maine who learned to cook to make a living.  Bailey still plays his great grandfather’s violin, but cooking has emerged as the Bailey strength.  Drinking defeated two of them.

Bailey cannot separate himself from the tragic figures who preceded him.  The introduction to his book is their story.  When you ask Bailey about himself, he starts with his grandfather.  But the recipes in the cookbook paint a different picture of this generation of Yankee Chef.  From the breakfast oatmeal with pumpkin and maple syrup, to a lengthy section on Whoopie Pies, this book makes me think of Bailey as an enthusiastic gentleman who loves cooking for family and friends, and loves Maine and New England, the old and new.

Mayflour cake + confections

Sunday, April 7th, 2013

 

“This cake tastes pretty!” my eighteen year old daughter declared, after a silence that followed her first fork of lavender cake with honey buttercream frosting.

This is Mayflour cake + confections.  Baker of beautiful, mistress of the pretty, Mayflour owner Jocelyn Pierce believes that cakes and confections should be made with the best organic ingredients, and they should taste as lovely as they look.

Last year Pierce, at 32, left a happy career at Crate and Barrel to enroll in the French Pastry School in Chicago where she graduated with high honors.  Pierce mastered not just French pastry but the precision of petit-fours, chocolate work, spun sugar, and genoise.  She triumphed over the weight-bearing powers of fondant and “cakes that looked like stiletto heels.”

 

 

At Mayflour Pierce takes her apron full of classical French Pastry lessons and applies her own philosophy and aesthetic.  She uses buttercreams, ganaches, and rich flavorful frostings that taste even better than they look.

“Buttercream adds an element of imperfection,” Pierce says.  “It celebrates the organic,.”  – as opposed to the structurally sound but not very delicious fondant.

 

 

The Mayflour chocolate cake is layers of a moist, true sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream frosting.  Her coconut cake uses fresh coconut in the cake and coconut milk.

 

 

And her confections? Pierce’s cannele – those little French cakes baked in individual fluted copper molds which make the ratio of  yummy caramelized crust to soft, buttery interior about 6:1 – would be at home on a white porcelain plate beside a cafe au lait on the Rue St. Honore.  Pierce makes these very traditional French cakes in the traditional copper molds the traditional Bourdeaux way:  each mold is brushed lightly with a combination of melted butter and beeswax before baking (Pierce uses organic, food-grade beeswax), giving that outer buttery crust a faint whiff of honey.  Mayflour cannele are the exquisitely articulated lesson of something so artful tasting so purely, simply divine.

 

 

 

From the time she was young Pierce loved baking.  She realized how much she loved the celebratory element of desserts when years ago she baked for a friend her first wedding cake – carrot cake with cream cheese frosting – 4 layers, white chocolate curls on top – which is still one of her most popular wedding choices.

“The dudes love the carrot cake,” Pierce says, smiling.

At Mayflour cake + confections classic, old fashioned and French meets fresh, modern, organic, delicious, pure, and pretty.

But this is all too dry a discussion for desserts that are as luscious and dreamy looking in a lovely, simple elegant way as Mayflour.  Go to the website and imagine away an occasion for which to call Pierce.  Order a small coconut cake for an intimate anniversary, a lavendar cake with honey buttercream for a spring wedding shower; order a dozen cannele for a special summer breakfast on your porch.  Those cannele should require proof that the purchaser will only serve freshly brewed French Roast coffee with them.

 

 

Pierce will deliver almost anywhere.

 

 

Mayflour Cake + Confections

Jocelyn Pierce

mayflourconfections.com

Jocelyn@mayflourconfections.com

617-694-2769

A Salon at Howlets

Saturday, March 30th, 2013

 

When Sarah Kelly from The Roving Home calls and says, “you got a minute?” she really means, “Heather, you got two months?”  And it’s always, always the beginning of something wonderful.

Once this kind of call ended up as a tent set up at the end of White Wharf in Rockport with a bluegrass band, a hotdog machine, and a bunch of people holding artwork they own.  At the start of an hour, art-holders started swapping with each other.  Bluegrass played.  Waves lapped.  Tourists holding ice cream cones wondered what was going on.

Every time someone asked to swap a piece of artwork, a mark was put on the requested piece.  The work with the most requests at the end of the “game” won.  It was a sort of Yankee Art Swap in which the value of the item was actually charted; a work’s value wasn’t in dollars but in recorded demand.

Another time Sarah called me to say, “Rockport needs a summer-time farmer’s market – right downtown.”  That’s happening.  Watch for it.

Welcome to Sarah Kelly’s Rockport, a blended allegiance to the town’s quirky history of artists, quarrying, lobstering, and Nisu, and to a new vibe in which arty becomes multi-generational, edgy, provocative, thoughtful and gets a fabulous view with something authentic if not delicious to eat.

Sarah, along with an equally talented group of Rockporters, runs Rockport Festivals:  Motif #1 Day and HarvestFest, which in the last two years attracted over 5,000 visitors to town.  When Sarah calls, I say “yes” before she’s finished talking.  This time, the call went like this,  “Heather, why don’t we do a lunch, and invite a bunch of people we don’t know…”

That was vaguely the idea, but more specifically the plan was to invite people from the art and design world “over the bridge,” who know little of Cape Ann’s history and culture.

 

Lunch at my house, at Howlets, would mean a lesson in Folly Cove’s and Lanesville’s artistic traditions – as deep as the quarries that blacken the Lanesville woods – Walker Hancock, Paul Manship, the Folly Cove Designers, and the Finns who settled here.   “Lunch for strangers at Howlets” would also mean a lesson in the Hale Family, the Hale artists who built my house, their daughter, Nancy Hale, who wrote for the New Yorker, and their two great aunts, anti-slavery author Harriet Beecher Stowe and Catherine Beecher, famous in the 19th century for her book on domesticity, described by scholar Kathryn Kish Sklar as “a comprehensive guide to all aspects of domestic self-management, an effort to create a female domain from which cultural power could be exercised.”  Yeah, she’s my favorite.

So, in what seems to be our matched style, Sarah and I proceeded not really knowing where this was going.  I’m pretty sure our guests didn’t know where this was going either; everyone seemed a little confused when they first arrived.  Remember, we barely knew these people and they barely knew each other.  Some, were happy/relieved to recognize a face, or be able to say, “I’ve eaten in your restaurant,” but mostly guests were simply people we thought would appreciate the quiet greatness of Folly Cove and Lanesville, or people who are part of that greatness.

 

 

 

 

I prepared the lunch – a croustade of Alprilla Farm swiss chard and spinach, and then Early Spring Soup, a bowl of tiny local root vegetables doused in hot Appleton Farms milk, and garnished with Sasquatch smoked salmon, peas and dill.  Lanesville resident Mary Lou Nye baked Nisu which we spread with Appleton Farms butter.  There were chocolate espresso cookies for dessert, and there was prosecco and Gruner wine gently poured.  This was a weekday lunch, after all.

Sarah styled.  Resistant to capital “S” style, Sarah’s is not just a bow to the seasons but a crawl along the ground hunting for that truest and best source of style, what nature gives us for free.

 

 

 

 

 

A large birch log cradling plates of mushrooms lay down the center of the table as if it had just fallen in the woods.  The mushrooms cupped clumps of moss, the dirt still shaking from it, in which fluttered crepe-paper snowdrops, handmade by Sarah.

Across the room a collection of boxes, “Joseph Cornell-like,” as one guest described them, housed small totems to spring and Cape Ann:  rocks, more moss.

 

 

Guests left with a rock and a Sarah-created folio covered by a nautical map of cape ann, a silouette of a whale painted on it, an image inside of Dogtown from the 1920s, and a poem about Rockport by Lucy Larcom, a tiny emblem of our day.

Hopefully, guests left happy and less confused.  One gentleman, standing at the door ready to leave, declared, “I know what this was; it was a salon!”  And then he turned to a female guest and said, “and you’re Gertrude Stein!”

Now that we know what this is, we hope to have more.  Watch for your invitation.

 

Cape Ann has her own poets, nightingales 

Warbling among her roses, rarely heard, 

Except by those who woke that minstrelsy ; — 

And she hath joy in other voices : hers 

Who saw and pointed to the Gates Ajar 

So earnestly, the world turned to look in ; 

And his whose rippling notes the Merrimack 

Brings down to charm the coast with, — Avery’s chant, 

Surging up from the seas and centuries 

In dying triumph, — and the marvelous tale 

Of spectral soldiers at the garrison 

In times of war and witchcraft ; and that bard’s 

Whose tender Ballad of the Hesperus 

Blooms, a sweet, pale, pathetic flower of song, 

From the bare reef of Norman’s Woe. 

Cool coves, 

That open to blue breadths of sea ; lost roads, 

Wandering, bewildered, past forsaken homes,

House and inhabitant forgotten now, 

And grass-grown cellar-hollows their sole sign ; 

Strange rocking-stones a-tilt for centuries ; 

White lily-ponds and dank magnolia-beds ; 

Sands that give music to your footstep ; pines 

Hoarse with forever answering the sea’s moan, — 

These will awaken to poetic life In hearts of unborn minstrels. 

Though too late For resurrection of dead legends now, 

Though Woes and Miseries haunt us unexplained, 

Though all the dangerous coast is lighted up, 

Safe as a city street by night, — the gleam 

Of Straitsmouth, Eastern Point, and Ten Pound Light, 

And Thacher’s Isle, twin-beaconed, winking back 

To twinkling sister-eyes of Baker’s Isle, — 

Prosaic names await romantic births. 

Man makes his own traditions ; life and death 

And love and sorrow baffle commonplace ; 

And poesy will find her wilderness 

Of fancy to grow up in, blithely free 

From pedant – theories of thus and so, 

That fence the schools around.

 - Lucy Larcom

The Wild Roses of Cape Ann

and Other Poems, 1880

St. Joseph’s Day Pasta

Tuesday, March 19th, 2013

 

 

In the old days Gloucester school children stayed home on St. Joseph’s Day, March 19th, and workers all over the city left their jobs at lunch time to attend one of the hundreds of luncheons being prepared all over the city; some carried dishes which they would fill with leftover St. Joseph’s Day pasta.  The day was as special in the hearts of Gloucester Sicilians as St. Peter’s and Christmas; St. Joseph, after all, cared for the sick, for workers, for fathers, orphans, and homes.  It is said that if you want to sell your house bury a statue of St. Joseph upside down in a corner of your property for good luck.  To this, Emma Tarantino, the petite matriarch in charge of last Saturday’s Tarantino feast of St. Joseph, declared she would never be able to sell her house, “How could I do that to that man?!” – meaning the saint for whom at each stage of the pasta-making someone calls out, “Como siamo tutti mute?!” – What are we all mute?!

And the family responds in unison, “Viva, Jesus, Maria, Giu-seeeep-Pe!

These days March 19th falls on a weekday, and modern life makes it more difficult for everyone to stop for a saint, so the Tarantino family prepared their feast – the traditional homemade pasta with fava beans, lentils, cauliflower, and fennel – for 60 on a day when everyone could be there.  It was an adapted tradition, but no less absolute.

 

Emma never stopped smiling as one group tended the pasta in her small kitchen and she stirred the enormous pot of goranza, the Sicilian term for a pasta sauce.  Friends and family filed in both her back door and front, carrying more trays of food – fruit platters, cannolis, zeppole from Jim’s Donut Shop.  Each time a new group of guests arrived, the cry arose from some corner of the house, “Como siamo tutti mute?!”

Viva, Jesus, Maria, Giu-seeeep-PE!”

“They LOVE this!  Can you see it!” Emma beamed up at me, so deeply happy that the old St. Joseph Day tradition was revived.  Jimmy Tarantino, his cousins Annette, Pauline, Salvatore, and his wife Laurel were all there at 7:00 a.m. cracking eggs into the flour, eyeing just the right amount of water to add, and kneading the dough for twenty minutes.  When I arrived at 8:00 a.m. five or six golden pasta doughs were resting beneath a dish towel.  We all began breaking off small sections and rolling into egg-size football shapes.  Each of those shapes – maybe 100 of them – were then rolled through the pasta machine.  One person fed, and one person cranked.  And one person – usually Annette, called out, “Como siamo tutti mute?!”

“Viva, Jesus, Maria Giu-seeeeep-PI!”

 

The Tarantinos call the dough “bei-sta,” the Sicilian vernacular for pasta.  Jimmy Tarantino laughed, remembering when someone once asked his grandmother how to spell “bei-sta;”  “P-A-S-T-A-,” his grandmother answered, surprised the person didn’t know how to spell.

More cousins – Martha Moore and her children, someone carrying a curly-haired baby -  arrived, and everyone began helping to cut the pasta, racing the fresh ribbons to a bed down the hall covered in clean sheets, upon which we separated the strands.  Sal drove to Virgillio’s to pick up the St. Joseph’s rolls, returning with bags and bags of the soft rolls cut with a cross.  Jimmy left to fetch his mother, Shirley, who, even with compromised breathing, insisted on being there and having a role.  She sat quietly at one end of the kitchen assembling the bags of oranges, lemons and St. Joseph rolls that are traditionally handed to every guest as they leave.

 

“The oranges represent sweetness of life, the lemons represent the good and the bad, and the rolls mean you will never go hungry,” Annette told me.

 Someone set a beautiful bowl of oranges on the table.  Someone brought out the “Boipi,” the treasured octopus salad, not a St. Joseph’s tradition, but everyone loves it so it’s become a special dish for every holiday.  After the hours of pasta kneading, cranking, and cutting, people sat and took a break of the delicious octopus, carrots and celery in a sharp vinaigrette, into which we dipped the warm St. Joseph’s rolls.

More guests arrived.  The “Viva!” rang out.  A batch of babies, chased by parents, crawled on the floor between grown-up legs.  Wine poured.  Thirty or so saints stood assembled upon a homemade altar between the kitchen and the living room.  Long ago, when grandmother Pauline Tarantino died, the statues had been dispersed among the grandchildren, each taking their favorite saint or the one for which they were named.  Those grandchildren, all grown, had returned each saint to this altar to be together again for St. Joseph’s Day.

 

 

For many Gloucester families the St. Joseph’s Day tradition had faded for a while.  A few years ago Emma decided to make the pasta again.  When her house was suddenly bursting with family and friends, Emma realized how much everyone had missed this mid-Lent celebration.  This year, Emma’s grandson, Michael Tarantino – in his twenties – stood beside his new fiance, and watched as his aunt mixed the fresh pasta with the goranza.

“It needs to marry more,” Michael admonished Annette.  Even this young man, ready to start a family, with visions of living and working far away in Hawaii, stood proudly with his happy, laughing family, and already had strong feelings about the Tarantino St. Joseph’s Day traditions.

 

When the pasta was finally married with the goranza, rich with fava beans and lentils, softly flavored with fennel and cauliflower, the fettucini silky, Annette and Pauline served from the enormous pot;  the steaming bowls of St. Joseph’s Day pasta were passed around.  The altar around the corner sparkled.   Some things may change in Gloucester, but the love this community feels for St. Joseph, and the traditions around this saint, extend back over years and project to the future, joining this community.  St. Joseph still heals.

While no one would ever make this small an amount of St. Joseph’s Pasta, I have adapted Emma’s recipe that serves 60 for 6-8.

 

Tarantino St. Joseph’s Day Pasta

serves 6-8

 

For the pasta

 

Ingredients

 

4 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 eggs

6-8 tablespoons cold water

 

Instructions

 

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl.

 

Make a well in the center of flour.  Add eggs one at a time mixing slightly after each addition.  Use hands for this.

Gradually add 6 to 8 tablespoons of cold water.  Still using your hands, mix well to make a stiff dough.  Turn dough onto a slightly floured surface and knead dough into a ball.  Knead for approximately for twenty minutes.   Allow dough to rest.

 

Cut off small portions of dough, the size of a small egg, and shape them between your hands into a football shape.

 

Roll each of these shapes through a pasta machine first set on #3 to slightly flatten, and then set on #6 to flatten more.   Allow to rest again on clean dish towels.  Then cut a final time into fettucini shapes.  Spread pasta ribbons out again on a clean surface so that they can dry slightly, and not stick together.

 

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.  Add pasta, and cook for 8 minutes.  Drain.

 

Ladle pasta into the prepared sauce, which will still have a lot of liquid.  Allow pasta and sauce to “marry,” letting it sit on a low temperature together for 15 minutes before serving.  When serving, stir up from the bottom to make sure you get all the goranza.

 

(8 times this recipe was used on Saturday.)

 

 

Tarantino St. Joseph’s Day Goranza

adapted to serve 6-8

 

Ingredients

 

1 1/4 cups dried fava beans

1 can fava beans

2/3 cups dried lentils

2/3 cups yellow split peas

1 can chick peas, rinsed

1 small cauliflower

1 can black eyed peas, rinsed

stems and fronds of 1 fennel bulb, sliced thinly

salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup olive oil

 

Instructions

 

Wash dried fava beans & let soak over night.

Rinse the canned fava beans and peel.

Drain soaked fava beans.  Cover in fresh water and simmer in a very large pot until tender.  This pot will hold all the sauce and the pasta.

Wash the lentils & yellow peas and pick out any small stones.  Place in a medium size pan with water to cover, and cook until slightly tender.  Add salt, pepper and olive oil while cooking.

Wash & cut up cauliflower and place in a medium to large pan covered with salted water, and cook also until slightly tender.

Now add lentils with their liquid, peeled fava beans, chickpeas, cauliflower with its liquid,  black eyed peas, and chopped fennel into the large pot and mix everything together. Pour in oil, and taste for salt and pepper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a new restaurant from The Market folks

Sunday, March 17th, 2013

 

1.  Amelia Monday (formerly O’Reilly) and Nico Monday, chefs and owners of The Market Restaurant on Lobster Cove, featured in last August’s issue of Food and Wine Magazine, have partnered with Howie Correa and Matt Cawley, familiar faces behind the counter at The Market, to open a second restaurant.

 

2.  The Market is not closing; it’s scheduled to re-open in May with Amelia and Nico in the kitchen.

 

3. Short & Main is the name of the second restaurant; that’s the address – the corner of Short St. and Main St. in Gloucester, also knows as the old Valentino’s building.

 

 

4.  Short & Main will be a casual raw bar and wood-fired pizza place, welcoming the hungry, the thirsty, the just a little bit hungry and thirsty who are looking for a quick plate of raw scallops and oysters, or maybe a wood-fired clam pizza with spring onions, pecorino, chiles and a spicy tomato sauce? An easy dinner of homemade sausage and rapini pizza, salad and a beer?  A stop after the beach for a Howie-crafted cocktail?

5.  The Tuscan Mugnaini oven will be the heart of the restaurant.  Nico is planning on having a lot of fun with it.

 

 

6.  Short & Main will be managed by Matt and Howie.

 

7.  The season in Gloucester for beautiful, fresh raw seafood and great pizza is always. Short & Main is planning on being a year-round place.  Matt and Howie are planning on becoming full-time Gloucester residents.

 

8.  The Market Gang found this fabulous section of Valentino’s history while renovating; they plan to keep it somewhere in the restaurant, a salute to the many years of pizza served here.

 

9.  The green arrow at the bottom of the Valentino’s banner points to Ed O’Reilly, Amelia’s father, who can be found almost every night between May and October on a stool at The Market Restaurant.  His image on this thirty-year-old banner is either a sign that the party is always where Ed O’Reilly is, or a sign that the Gloucester restaurant gods are smiling as the Valentino’s pizza torch is passed.

Saskia Nugent’s Chocolate Irish Tea Cake with Milk and Honey Ganache

Friday, March 1st, 2013

 

Slender, strawberry-blonde Saskia Nugent loves the fragrance of warm croissants with lots of butter, of vanilla and cream, of cinnamon and vanilla, of flour, yeast and butter together. Of brioche. Did I say warm croissants?

 

“Simple flavors are what I like; the smell of fresh butter is something I know a lot about.”

Nugent makes dessert – pate a choux, chiffons, ganaches, chocolates, pastries – everything from scratch – at 43 Church in Salem, formerly The Lyceum.  While she coos about the sensuality of being a pastry chef, Nugent loves the rules of pastry:

Cold butter or cold eggs in a batter will flatten a cake.

You have to be gentle mixing flour because it wants to make gluten.

Cook sugar slowly; it requires a lot of attention.

When you’re making a sauce or reduction, skim, skim, skim off the foam at the top; those are the contaminants in the sugar rising to the surface.

The amount of air you incorporate into a dough, the temperature of the ingredients, everything matters.

You have to behave, Nugent says, when you’re making pastry.

We try to schedule the Gloucester Glitterati, a small group of of bright, culinary-centered women on Cape Ann who meet once a month in restaurants or our homes, for when our Saskia has a night off, because then we get treats like this:

 

 

 

Chocolate Irish Tea Cake with Milk and Honey Ganache

 

Ingredients

 

For cake:

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2/3 cup granulated sugar

2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed

2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 cup sour cream

1/4 cup milk

1/2 cup of Irish tea brewed dark, cooled

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup Nesquick instant hot cocoa powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

 

For caramel sauce:

1 cup of sugar

4 tablespoons or 1/2 stick of unsalted butter.

1/4 milk

 

For Ganache:

1 cup of Irish tea brewed dark

12 ounces of semisweet chocolate

12 ounces of milk chocolate

Two cups of milk

Half a cup of honey

Pinch of nutmeg

pinch of cloves

 

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350

Grease and flour a 9 x 13 inch cake pan.

Cream butter and sugars together.  Add eggs one at a time.  In a separate bowl stir together all the liquids.  In another bowl mix together flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt.  Add liquids alternately with the flour to the butter and sugar in three steps.  Pour into prepared pan and bake cake for 20-25 minute until knife comes out clean and cool upside down on rack.

While the cake is cooling:  add 1 cup of sugar to a sauce pan and melt over medium heat.

Once sugar liquifies add 4 tablespoonsof butter to pan and deglaze. Then add a

1/4 cup of milk and stir. Remove from heat and set aside.

When cake has cooled, loosen and invert onto a platter.

Poke the top of the cake repeatedly with the tip of a knife. Be careful not to

tear the cake just poke it all over so it can better absorb the caramel sauce.

Pour the caramel sauce lightly over the cake in a zig zag pattern and then

transfer the cake to a fridge to cool for a half an hour.

 

For the ganache, combine all ingredients in a sauce pan on very low heat until the chocolate is melted completely, and a shiny consistency is reached.  Add more milk for a thinner ganache. Stir constantly.

Pour ganache over chilled cake evenly, smoothing over the edges to cover the

sides.  Chill in fridge before serving.

 

Optional:  Top with any salted nuts chopped fine. The salt goes so well  with the sweet and the crunchy nuts pair so well with the moist cake and creamy

ganache.

 

Some of our Glitterati have blogs; click on their names to follow them!

Jennifer Goulert Amero

Laurie Lufkin

Melissa Abbott

Sheree DeLorenza

Emily Roach

a home slaughter – guest post by my brother

Tuesday, January 29th, 2013

 

My brother, Brad Atwood, lives in South Royalton, Vermont, in an old yellow farmhouse flanked by grand maple trees and shouldered by rolling meadows, in which stand his small herd of Scotch Highland cattle.  Brad recently invited me up to witness the finish of one of his steer.  Fascinated but squeamish, I chose not to go, but asked Brad to write a post about the experience.  Brad practices law in Hanover, New Hampshire when he’s not tossing bales of hay to the shaggy brood.  He also has four kids; the youngest, Bruce, is fourteen.

 

 

Bruce edited a school newspaper (Sharon Academy, Sharon, VT.) last year on the politics of local, national and global food policy, in which he presented the virtues of home-slaughtering farm-raised animals.  Bruce’s paper, written with his friend, Chris, is printed at the bottom of the blog.

 

Here is my brother’s account of his own home slaughter last Thursday.

 

 

If you are a vegetarian or a vegan, please take your fight elsewhere. I am writing for the silent majority of omnivores who are not giving up meat any time soon, but who still care deeply about how this important food source is raised and ultimately slaughtered for our consumption.

Chet Miller and his son arrived at my Sharon, Vermont farm early one recent frigid January morning. The sky was blindingly clear and the snow squeaked in the subzero temperature as I marched across the farmyard driveway to greet them. Chet climbed out of his pick-up truck and pulled out the tools of his trade – sharp knives, block and tackle, electric chainsaw and a 30/30 rifle. He quickly got to work. “So, which one will it be?” Chet asked, looking over at my small herd of grass fed Scottish Highland cattle (known as “Hippie cows” by Vermont farmers for their long, hairy coats) who were otherwise interested only in that morning’s feeding of hay. “It’s the big red steer by the fence,” I answered uncomfortably, pointing to a large 2 1/2 year old male peacefully chewing on last summer’s grass crop. I was feeling uncomfortable, you see, because I had just signed the animal’s death warrant.

Chet belongs to what is really a noble and time-honored guild; a profession still actively carried out in Vermont and other rural areas across New England. Chet is the man you call to come to your farm to slaughter the animals you have raised, frequently since birth, for food. He is a consummate, skilled professional who kills your animal as humanely as possible, then skins, eviscerates and breaks it down into fore and hind quarters, ready to be wrapped in plastic sheeting and driven to the butcher for further processing. Chet and his son are very busy these days. In my area, on-farm slaughtering is a growth industry, as consumers become better educated about the meat they eat and how it was raised and slaughtered. All four of my own children have diligently read Michael Pollan’s highly recommended book, The Omnivore’s Dilemma (my youngest, Bruce, now 14, read it in 5th grade). We, too, decided to “walk the walk” and raise and slaughter our own beef.

On-farm slaughtering is highly respectful of the animal. It avoids the real trauma of transporting a creature (who has known no other home but the pastures of your farm) by trailer to a “USDA approved” slaughterhouse where it lives out its last remaining days in the completely alien environment of dank, dark crowded holding pens. By contrast, the Highland steer Chet killed for me knew no fear when it died. There was no surge of adrenaline which can toughen the meat. It is never easy to take a life, but this cow had lived a very good one. Let’s face it, if you are going to eat meat, some animal’s death is inevitable. Doing so in a respectful manner is not only more humane, but arguably provides better quality meat. Chet dispatched my steer with a single point-blank rifle shot between the eyes. He literally never knew what hit him while quietly feeding in the same pasture, and with the same herd members, it had known since birth.

After Chet shot the steer, I raised the carcass off the ground with a tractor for clean, safe skinning and quartering. Asked whether I wanted the “hanger steak” (who would not?), I quickly said yes. So, too, the tongue, liver and heart. Chet took the hide and head. I hauled the remainder of the entrails in the tractor’s bucket to drop along the edge of the woods as a welcome winter feast for the coyotes, ravens and other local wildlife. Carefully wrapped in plastic sheeting, I drove the two fore and hind quarters in the back of my pick-up truck to the butcher, where the steer weighed in at 463 pounds. After hanging and aging for ten days, he will custom cut the carcasses into constituent steaks, roasts and hamburger (all individually wrapped and frozen) to feed my family until next year, when Chet returns and the endless cycle of life and death on a farm continues.

 

 

On-Farm Slaughter: Unclean or Pristine?

By Chris Gish and Bruce Atwood

Since the 1970’s, the meat industry has trended away from the traditional small farm towards fewer, but much larger, corporate farm complexes. Today, the Food and Water Watch reports that four corporations, Tyson, Cargill, Swift, and National Beef Packing process 84% of all beef in America in huge, mechanized slaughterhouses (Estabrook). However, some people wish to buck this trend and continue the old fashioned way of raising meat. An integral part of this method is slaughter and processing, and many see slaughtering on the farm as the most desirable technique.

On-farm slaughter, the practice of killing livestock in the same place as it was raised, has generated deep controversy between Vermont and the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) in recent years.  The state of Vermont has passed legislation encouraging on-farm slaughter, but USDA oversight prevented many of these reforms from becoming law. In 2007, Vermont passed the so called “Chicken Bill”, which allowed small scale poultry farmers to slaughter and process birds for sale to consumers without needing a state inspected facility (Farm Fresh Meat).  Vermont went a step further in 2008, when it legislated the Farm Fresh Meat bill, aimed at encouraging meat production on small farms.  This act would allow customers to buy meat animals live, though the animals would continue to live the rest of their life on the original farm.  These animals could then be slaughtered and processed on the farm, without the need for an inspected facility (Ancel). However, the USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service, upon reviewing the Farm Fresh Meat bill, divested it of many key provisions. The revised law only allows on-farm slaughter under the individual and custom exemptions. One qualifies for the individual exemption if the meat is consumed only by the farmer, his/her family, employees, or un-paying guests. The custom exemption allows farmers to sell meat slaughtered on the farm if the animal is slaughtered by an approved custom slaughterer in a VTAA (Vermont Agency of Agriculture) approved sanitary custom slaughter facility (McNamara). The USDA revisions have taken away many of the benefits of on-farm slaughter for small farmers, as it is laborious and expensive to fund a certified slaughterer and facility.

The USDA cites safety as its main concern in restricting the legality of on-farm slaughter. The USDA and other food safety organizations claim that on-farm slaughter in an uncertified facility increases the risk of tainted meat. Traditionally, many small farmers slaughtered their animals in no facility at all, it was common practice to hang the carcass from a tree limb or tractor bucket and process it there, where it may have been exposed to flies and other undesirables. These operations were obviously not “clean” in the sense that they occured in a place that can be wiped down and sanitized, and the USDA could not inspect these activities to fulfill their role in ensuring the safety of the public’s food.  Because of this, the USDA decided to only allow on-farm slaughtered meat to be sold if the livestock was killed in a facility inspected to ensure its safety. Additionally, on-farm slaughter leaves one with the task of disposing the entrails from the carcass, a potential contamination hazard for surrounding land and waterways. Inspected slaughterhouses, on the other hand, must adhere to rigorous safety standards regarding proper waste disposal (Larson).

Many small farmers are frustrated with the USDA’s changes to this law, as it hinders their effort to make a profit selling local meat. Due to small size, it is often prohibitively expensive and laborious to operate an inspected slaughter facility on the farm, and to become a certified slaughterer. In such cases, the USDA suggests instead sending the animals to a larger, fully USDA certified slaughterhouse. However, many small farmers find this option less than ideal, for large slaughterhouses are often quite a distance from the farm.  Transporting livestock long distances is known to increase stress levels in the animals. Additionally, animals sometimes must stay a few days alive at the slaughterhouse prior to being killed. Often times this occurs in less than desirable conditions, adding even more stress to the animal (Estabrook). Many feel that the higher animal stress levels engendered by taking the animals to a slaughterhouse make this method less than humane. Conversely, killing the animal on the farm gives it the feeling of being perfectly at home and content before its life is quickly and humanely taken. Many also believe that raising an animal on pasture and slaughtering on the farm is safer and far less of a health risk than the methods of large farms and slaughterhouses.  It is common practice at these large factory farms for animals for the animals to spend their entire life amid their own waste, which often cakes onto the hide. Some also contend that slaughtering livestock on the farm is an integral part of promoting local food, for it cannot be very local if the animal was slaughtered 100 miles away, no matter how close to the consumer it was raised.  Moreover, many see the open, completely transparent nature of on-farm slaughter as one of its foremost benefits.  At a conventional slaughterhouse, killing and processing take place indoors, where it is invisible to the public, whereas slaughter on the farm would be completely visible to any customer.  This provides many with a certain peace of mind, being able to see for certain that your animal was killed and processed cleanly and humanely, instead of just hoping that the slaughterhouse processed your animal satisfactorily.

Our food system has changed more in the last 60 years than it has changed in any other time period. We move increasingly away from our tradition, always in an attempt to escape the reality of our food and where it comes from. However, what some people are finding is that maybe our ancestors had it right, and small, simple farms are the way to go.  To allow such small farms to flourish in providing meat to our population, some believe slaughtering on the farm must once again play a crucial role

 

 

Works Cited

  1. Ancel, Janet. “Legislative Documents.” Vermont Legislature. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Jan. 2012. <http://www.leg.state.vt.us/docs/legdoc.cfm?URL=/docs/2008/bills/intro/H-749.HTM>.
  2. Estabrook, Barry. ” USDA Red Tape Stands in the Way of Humane Slaughter Techniques and Local, Sustainable Meat Production .” Politics of the Plate. N.p., 20 Jan. 2010. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://politicsoftheplate.com/?p=212>.”Farm Fresh Meat | Rural Vermont.” Rural Vermont. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://www.ruralvermont.org/issues-main/ffmeat/>.
  3. “Farm Fresh Meat | Rural Vermont.” Rural Vermont. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://www.ruralvermont.org/issues-main/ffmeat/>.
  4. Larson, Jean. “Disposal of Dead Production Animals.” usda.gov. USDA, n.d. Web. 24 Jan. 2012. <www.nal.usda.gov/awic/pubs/carcass.htm>.
  5. McNamara, Katherine. “Update on On-Farm Slaughter.” Vermont Agriculture. Vermont Agency of Agriculture, 15 Dec. 2010. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <vermontagriculture.com/fscp/meatInspection/documents/update_on_farm_slaughter.pdf>.

 

note:  Chet told my brother that more than once he has returned to a farm a year after a slaughter, seen the cows lift their heads at his truck’s arrival, and they’ve turned and run.

All photos here by Caroline Atwood